Auro in Autumn: World class dining during harvest season in Napa

Napa Valley’s dining scene has evolved into a destination all its own, perfectly complementing the world-class wineries that line the region’s iconic thirty-mile stretch. Whether you’re craving a casual bite from a roadside stand, browsing artisanal goods at boutique grocers, or indulging in Michelin-starred cuisine, there’s something to satisfy every palate and budget.

For those seeking a truly memorable culinary experience to cap off their time in Napa, Auro is a standout choice. Nestled within the Four Seasons Resort in Calistoga, this one-Michelin-star restaurant showcases a seasonal seven-course tasting menu crafted by Chef Rogelio Garcia, priced at $225. It’s a refined celebration of California’s bounty, set against the serene backdrop of northern Napa.

Chef Garcia immigrated to the U.S. with his mother and grew up in Northern California. His culinary journey includes time spent at Michael Mina, Redd, and The French Laundry, amongst others. At Auro, Chef Garcia draws from his Mexican heritage to create beautifully elegant dishes that are still distinctly Californian. The results are spectacular!

On this particular evening in late September 2024, the Four Seasons hosted a celebratory gathering on the patio in honor of Chef Rogelio Garcia’s newly released cookbook, Convivir. Before dinner, we had the pleasure of meeting Chef Garcia as he signed copies and posed for photos with guests. I feel compelled to mention how genuinely humble and kind he is. When we congratulated him on his Michelin star and the many accolades he’s received, he graciously deflected the praise, instead asking where we were visiting from and expressing his excitement to cook for us that night. It was a warm and personal moment that set the tone for the exceptional meal to come.

Upon arriving at Auro, guests are greeted with a glass of sparkling wine and a delicate gougère—a charming prelude that sets the tone for the culinary journey ahead. We had requested a table on the terrace to fully immerse ourselves in the breathtaking views of the hotel grounds and the majestic mountains beyond. With the restaurant offering only a seven-course tasting menu, the focus naturally shifts to selecting the perfect beverages. Fortunately, our visit coincided with a special installment of Auro’s wine dinner series, featuring optional pairings curated by Donum Estate for an additional $165—a delightful enhancement to an already memorable evening.

I opted for the pairings, while my wife wanted to try something by Elusa Winery – the vineyard located on the Four Seasons property. Their Sauvignon Blanc is excellent by the way, and some of the best we’ve tasted.

Prelude to the Meal

Before the official courses began, the kitchen sent out a series of intricate snacks—each bite a preview of the technique and creativity to come. We were advised to start from the top:

• Two types of tartar
• Fried Spanish octopus
• Raw Wagyu over an oyster mousse-filled cracker topped with caviar
• King salmon with endive and radish in whipped truffled chèvre
• A soft horchata custard served in an egg

Some bites stood out more than others, but all showcased impressive craftsmanship.

Wine Pairing: 2017 Donum Estate Blanc de Blancs

First Course: Cape Cod Scallop

The scallop was just barely cooked, allowing the natural sweetness to shine. It’s hard to imagine rice executed like the top omakase sushi restaurant – the perfect amount of chew and texture to balance the soft scallop. The dish comes together with mojo verde, which typically has more acid than its rojo counterpart making it better with seafood, and finished with puffed crispy rice on top. Exceptional dish.

Wine Pairing: 2021 Donum Estate The Heron Chardonnay

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Second Course: 10-Day Dry-Aged Japanese Shima Aji

Shima-aji (also known as striped jack), is a delicate cross between yellowtail and mackerel, often noted as the highlight in omakase sushi menus. This dish arrives as a flower created by the Shima-Aji wrapped with the pluots, and then the aguachile poured tableside. In addition to the beautiful culinary creation is the custom plateware, which somewhat resembled an ocean shell. The salinity and unctuousness of the fish pairs wonderfully with the sweet pluots, with the aguachile giving the dish some acidity and a subtle heat. Another perfect dish.

Wine Pairing: 2021 Donum Estate Carneros Chardonnay

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Bread Course: Parker House Roll

Warm parker rolls arrived with whipped cow and goat milk butters. This wasn’t just a bread course—it was a revelation. Buttery, soft, and addictive, we found ourselves alternating bites between the two butters. Absolutely stellar.

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Third Course: Tenbrink Farm Early Girl Tomato Bisque

This course was a celebration of California’s vibrant produce. It began with a charming gesture: the staff presented a bowl of fresh, seasonal tomatoes, inviting guests to sample them at their leisure. Moments later, the tomatoes were whisked away, replaced by a stunning copper-hued plate showcasing the same tomatoes artfully arranged alongside figs and a crisp tuile. The silky bisque was then poured tableside, offering a warm and elegant prelude to the evening’s richer courses.

Wine Pairing: 2021 Donum Estate Goldfields Chardonnay

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Fourth Course: 12-Day Dry-Aged Vancouver Black Cod

Chef Rogelio delivers a masterful preparation of black cod, its skin rendered perfectly crisp while the flesh remains delicately just-cooked. The dish is accompanied by a rich fumé—an intensely flavored seafood stock, primarily derived from shellfish and reduced to a velvety, mussel-infused cream. The dry-aging process deepens the cod’s briny character, creating a bold yet balanced harmony with the fumé. Paired with red wine, this dish stood out as a personal favorite, showcasing how thoughtful contrasts can elevate a seafood course to something truly memorable.

Wine Pairing: 2021 Donum Estate Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

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Fifth Course: White Binchotan-Grilled Japanese Wagyu

The final savory course was nothing short of extraordinary. Over the years, I’ve tasted many renditions of Wagyu beef, but never the elusive Japanese A5—a cut revered for its unparalleled marbling and richness. Chef Rogelio Garcia approaches this ingredient with reverence, searing it gently in its own fat to a perfect medium rare, using minimal seasoning to let the beef’s natural flavor shine. The result? A melt-in-your-mouth experience that was both indulgent and deeply satisfying.

Accompanying the Wagyu was Chef Garcia’s signature mole negro, a complex and soulful sauce featured in his cookbook Convivir. Like traditional moles, it’s crafted from over thirty ingredients—burnt masa tortillas, chocolate, and a variety of dried peppers among them. Chef Garcia advised what sets his version apart is a surprising twist: roasted bananas, which add a subtle sweetness and depth that elevate the dish to something truly unforgettable.

Wine Pairing:
2022 Donum Estate Mikado Tree Pinot Noir
2021 Donum Estate White Barn Pinot Noir

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A Kitchen Surprise

Before dessert, we were invited into the kitchen for a quick tour. As we entered, the staff shouted “Happy Anniversary!”—a heartwarming touch. We chatted with Chef Garcia and his team, then took a photo in front of his Michelin Star plaque.

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Sixth Course: Tenbrink Farm Peaches

A refreshing palate cleanser featuring Tenbrink Farm peaches, Straus yogurt sherbet, basil cake, and a Marshall’s Farm honey vinaigrette. Light, sweet, and herbaceous—this dish was a gentle transition to dessert.

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Seventh Course: Cinnamon Buñuelo

In a meal brimming with standout moments, this dessert managed to steal the show—and I can say without hesitation, it was the best dessert I’ve ever had. A crispy, delicately sweet buñuelo rested atop roasted bananas, crowned with a cloud of horchata foam that added a warm cinnamon note. The interplay between the foam’s spice and the Abundancia caramelized milk chocolate crémeux was nothing short of magical.

The textures were impeccable: crisp, creamy, and velvety all at once. The flavors danced between sweet and spiced, rich and refreshing. In a video I captured for my reel, you can hear my wife exclaim, “This should be illegal!”—a sentiment we both shared as we savored every bite.

This dish was a masterclass in balance and creativity, and an unforgettable way to conclude an extraordinary meal.

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Final Bites & Farewell

To conclude, we were served house-made sour plum mochi—a surprising delight even for non-mochi fans. We left with a box of raspberry white chocolate truffles, and a gift from Donum Estate: flaky finishing salt with fried flowers.

Dining at a Michelin-starred restaurant isn’t just about exceptional food—it’s about experiencing something truly memorable, something that justifies the premium. Auro delivers on that promise flawlessly. From the exquisite ingredients like caviar, Japanese Shima-Aji, and A5 Wagyu to the generous array of bites offered beyond the official course count, the value feels genuine and never exploitative.

A quick highlight on the wine pairing: I was introduced to Donum Estate for the first time during this meal. Located in Sonoma County, its cooler climate compared to Napa makes it ideal for cultivating Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Their lineup included several expressions of these varietals, including a Blanc de Blancs sparkling wine. Mark de Vere, Donum’s Global Estate Ambassador, was present that evening, sharing insights about the wines and the striking bottle art created by renowned Chinese artist Ai Weiwei. The pairings were well balanced, and the generous pours inspired me to order some bottles for the upcoming holidays.

Even now, I vividly recall each dish and often revisit the photos to relive the experience. I’ve dined at several Michelin-starred establishments across the U.S., and this ranks among the very best. Beyond the phenomenal food, the warm and attentive staff, breathtaking views, and outstanding wine pairings made it an unforgettable evening. I’m already planning our next trip to Napa—with a return to Auro and a tasting at Donum Estate at the top of the list.

To view the reel I created of our evening at Auro, you can find it on Instagram here: Auro Reel.